Luxembourg

Arriving at the train station after dark and then taking the hilly walk down to the hostel under the glow of street lights and mist of rain, I really thought I was going to run in to Dracula. A great quote from our professor, Tony Lott, that sums up Luxembourg is “it’s only a country because of its geography.”

Luxembourg City may be the hilliest city in the world. There are two parts to the city: the lush, green valley (in January!!) where small bars and restaurants mix with residences that curve around a river and up town, or the city sitting above the valley. The valley is surrounded by either extremely steep hills or a stone wall built to protect the town from invaders. On top of the stone walls are decaying casements where soldiers hid during battle and look out towers. Home to the Romans and Celts and taken over in Napoleon’s famed conquest and both world wars the city’s history and sites mainly focus on war. A beautiful monastery in the valley is now home to art and archeological exhibitions.

Up town has been gentrified—Luxembourg’s extreme wealth shows in its many historic squares now lined by upscale clothing stores and restaurants. The area does hold the Duke of Luxembourg’s palace--it is one of the few countries still owned by a Duchy.

The duke kindly leased the land (at a very low rate) to the European Union to use in constructing the European Court of Justice. The court is the tallest and largest building in Luxembourg—something like 20,000 square feet I believe. Our guide was very concerned that one of us would get lost in the cavernous courts. However, we managed to stick together and even went on a tour. The building was new but beautiful—a strange change from the historic landmarks I’d grown accustomed to. One of the most interesting parts of the building was that it was built on stilts so as not to block the view of passersby.

The hearing we attended centered on the issue of defining when life begins and what constitutes a human embryo to see whether or not patenting stem cell research is permitted by the law. While we didn’t hear the court’s decision, it could set a new precedent for all states in the European Union.

I also must say the court was incredible hospitable letting us use their automated coffee machines and eat in the cafeteria (so many choices, so much fresh and delicious food). While we had a free day in Luxembourg after the hearing, I felt like the town didn’t have much in the way of activities to offer—its interesting parts were all sites. I was, however, on my way to Paris after where there is no shortage of sites, sounds, and places to take in.